CVpal troubleshooting
  • This discussion was created from comments split from: CVpal kits, pioneers run.
  • Hi – I just finished building the CV Pal kit – my first ever (my first ever soldering really…..gasp….)
    Amazed to see the LED light when a USB cable was plugged in. I am working with Pro Tools 8 – the CV Pal is being recognized and I am getting stuff from the Gate outputs – but nothing from the CV outputs. Any clues why this might be?

  • Could you post a photo of your board? (components side and solder side).

    Maybe there’s a bad solder joint on the DAC (ground pin?)

  • Yup – I’ll get on it…

  • Olivier – please forgive my nightmare soldering…......
    I need to buy better solder and a better soldering iron!!!!
    Now you can see why I’m surprised it works at all…..

    photo.JPG
    1536 x 2048 - 661K
    photo-1.JPG
    1536 x 2048 - 860K
  • Resolder the 8 pins of the DAC (part labelled MCP 4822) IC socket. Resolder the four 220 ohm resistors under the DAC.

    Good solder joints look like little mountains

    The ones you did for the 14 pin IC socket look OK. Try to make all the others look like that!

  • Thank you – I will do my best! I will also investigate smaller gauge solder!!! I think that might help…

  • Hi – I re-soldered what you asked me to – this time I bought finer solder wire and a magnifying glass with clips…
    All those solder joints are much better and cleaner than before, but I still have the same problem – nothing outputs from Out 1 & Out 2. What to do next?

  • You can start by resoldering everything. Do you have a multimeter?

  • Yes, I do now…
    How do I test for continuity? This is all very new….! Do I have to be able to read a schematic? I’m a little out of my depth!!!
    I will re-solder everything and get back to you….

    Thanks

  • Your meter has to have a continuity mode, usually denoted by something like a diode symbol, or a note symbol (it will be the smallest amount of symbols on the whole dial).

    Otherwise, set it to a low ohm range, like 200ohm, and see if there is less than 10ohms resistance between the points you are measuring.. :)

  • Hi – I re-soldered everything. All the joints look good. Now Pro Tools isn’t even recognizing the CV Pal, which it did before….

  • The led still lights, so USB power is still getting to it, nothing else works….

  • Bad USB Cable – now I’m back to where I was before. Recognized by Pro Tools, only Gates 1 & 2 working….

  • So….what do I do now????

  • Send me a message, I could try sending you another DAC.

  • Hi Olivier, i just build my kit today, and i only have the led light working, CVpal isn’t recognized by my laptop and my ipad.
    do you have any ideas ? (I double check with some friends, all seem to be fine…)

    pcb-front.jpg
    857 x 1641 - 658K
    pcb-back.jpg
    814 x 1976 - 735K
  • I would resolder C2 (looks like a bad solder joint).

  • Hi, i resolder it, and nothing change, still no CVpal

  • One of the solder joints on the crystal (the bottom one in the image) ?

    If your CV pal does nothing at all, either the crystal or its two capacitors might be the issue.

  • @Jonsavannah- I’m local and could give your CVpal a once over.

  • The original poster contacted me by email to indicate that he got it fixed – it was a bent leg on an IC socket.

  • i built a CV pal the other night and it works great on my macbook pro but is not recognized by my iPhone 5 or my 11” macbook air. any ideas on what could be the problem?

  • File under ID-10T problems.
    I was having trouble calibrating — cvpal was recognised by my computer and iphone fine, but trying to calibrate, after hitting a key (any key) on my keyboard was getting 2.01V from Out1 and 2. They went high, and didn’t come down — hitting other notes had no effect. Had to reboot to get back to zero.

    I resoldered a bunch of points and tried again, no joy.

    Turns out I needed to remove the thing I’d left on the other end of the keyboard.

    Sigh.

  • So this one is a bit complicated: I built a CVPal for someone who does not like soldering. I calibrated it using my Mac and Live as DAW, tested it by sending a short sequence on Midi channel 1 to my modular. Everything was working fine. I didn’t test all the modes, though, and I did not test it using the iPad, assuming it would work as expected.

    Now he seems to be having problems getting it to work. As far as I understand, he was using a Vestax V-Midi to connect his iPad to the CVPal: no CVs. I did a quick google and found out that the V-Midi only seems to be sending out USB1.0 and therefore is not working with some USB-devices. Could this be the reason he can’t get it to work?

    I am not sure of the hardware/cables/anything he is using since we only communicate via email.

  • did he try without the V-Midi? I assembled a CVpal a few days ago (first DIY project ever! well second, i started with something even simpler to be sure) and then tested on the iPad (2nd generation) and it worked fine, only using a cheap camera connection kit (no apple).

  • All good: working now (with camera connection kit).

  • Hi all,

    I’ve had a CVpal mostly finished for awhile and wasn’t really using a computer for sequencing until recently, so tonight I decided to try to get my CVpal working but I can’t get my MacBook running Live to recognize it. I have no problems with other USB MIDI hardware so I think I may have a faulty component or something. I self sourced and have a PCB/panel from the proto run which had the tight USB hole in the panel, FWIW.

    I’ve triple checked my soldering and I don’t think that’s the problem (plenty of practice lately, too). Does anyone have any tips on what to check or replace first? I tried re-flashing and that was successful, and my LED lights up happily so I seem to be getting power just fine. USB cable is confirmed working with other MIDI devices.

    I’m not sure if this could be it, but I used some (allegedly) 3.6V zeners from Tayda but they are a bit different looking/physically larger than the ones shown in the photos. Is there a voltage measurement that I can take to see if those are the problem?

    Thanks, friends! I don’t know why it took me so long to get around to trying this…I think my brain was separating modular from laptop commingling but now I am quite eager to take that plunge!

  • Do you have any datasheet for your Zener diodes?

  • I checked the datasheet, and I don’t think the diodes could be a problem. Now, do the diodes you have match the datasheet… that is the question!

  • Ah, good point…I’ll order replacements and a spare MCU with my next Mouser order and report back :)

  • > I have no problems with other USB MIDI hardware

    does the CVpal work with other USB hosts? iPad or anything? [not that i have a clue what could be wrong, but …]

  • Yes, it’s class compliant.

  • well, his obviously isn’t … if it doesn’t work with one device it is never wrong to check with another, just to be sure.

  • Sorry, thought you were asking if the CVPal worked with other devices generally :)

  • Laptop is my only USB host device, unfortunately. Mac OSX 10.6.8

  • I have just finished my CVPal. Seems to work fine with the desktop PC but I get no lights when plugged into the iPad Air using the camera connection kit. Is this a known problem? Is anyone else using an iPad Air with this?

  • i’m having a rather intermittent timing/clock issue when on channels 12/13/14 in ableton..seems rather intermittent, sometimes the divisions with be correct others times it’ll just be going crazy fast and i have to use a clock divider just to get it with a useful range..any ideas?

  • On gate output 1?

    Are you aware that channel 12 = 24ppqn ; channel 13 = 8ppqn ; channel 14 = 4ppqn?

  • Hi,
    I’ve built the CVPal some months ago, it’s been working fine, great module I have to say! In the meantime something happened,not quite sure what (short circuit,cable jam,no idea…),but channel 1 stopped working. I can still use it (eg. if I send midi via channel 4 and use Note 2 and Gate 2, works fine), Gate 1 is OK as well, but Note 1 is jammed, tried recalibrating it, sometimes it spits out some random voltage,but that’s it. I suspect the problem is with the DAC or the Attiny,since I rechecked every single connection. How can I determine which one is it?
    Thanks in advance!

  • Could be the jack or the DAC. I doubt it’s the Attiny – the other channel wouldn’t work. Redo all solder joints on the DAC, the 220R resistors and the jacks. Otherwise replace by a new DAC.

  • Thank you for your answer, probably going to replace DAC, I see no other potential defects, I just didn’t know if it is possible for the Attiny to “break” like that.

  • The Attiny uses the exact same lines and peripherals to communicate with the DAC – which handles both channels. So if there’s a problem with the Attiny, both channels will stop working simultaneously (and very, very probably: the device won’t even show up in your list of USB peripherals).

  • Replaced 4822, problem remains…Out 1 plays wrong voltage. Do you think I should try reprogramming the firmware?

  • > Do you think I should try reprogramming the firmware?

    What about re-running the calibration procedure? Maybe you sent by mistake a sequence to channel 15 (used for channel 1 calibration) and now the calibration data is totally wrong?

  • And id go over the soldering and reflow the mentioned Pads. Without insult, every time i hear it can’t be the soldering because the person ins the reincarnation of the SolderingHero™ its just that.

  • Incidentally, pichenettes, would it be possible/a good idea to have some kind of ‘locking mechanism’, whereby a special combination of keys had to be received on the calibration channels before the special calibration keys would do their thing? I ask because it would be quite easy to accidentally send note data from a DAW on those special channels, and thereby screw up the CV tuning. You wouldn’t necessarily know it was happening, either, as there would be no output from the CVPal at the time.

    Just a thought…

    a|x

  • Ok, I might just shoot myself. I mentioned that I’ve tried recalibrating it, but every C and F# note played 0V or 4V, so I didn’t even bother trying. Now I’ve just had. It worked. It took almost an hour and my fingertips are numb :D Thank you for your help, otherwise I’d have bought an other Attiny and programmer.
    @fcd72 – It was working fine for months, but rechecked every solder point and connection, so I didn’t have to think about that possibility.
    @toneburst – +1 :D
    You probably described what happened to mine, I have probably never used ch15, and still happened somehow.

  • @galingong
    how do you check a solder point? optical inspection?
    Your eyes trust not, with your heart you must see – Master Yoda

  • Yeah usually I use the force.
    Actually every multimeter has a mode that’s usable in the low resistance range(mine is up to 200 Ohm) and beeps if there is no (or very little) resistance. Try two connected legs of the two components and if it beeps,you’re ok. Also great for checking unwanted shorts. Pretty common method I suppose.

  • Cool, this also detects cold or bad solder joints that only act faulty at certain conditions?

  • Well, I don’t really test my builds in vacuum, 0 Kelvin or in the presence of a black hole so can’t tell you much about that.

  • What i am aiming for – i have from time to time perfect looking solder joints that just don’t work – your problem would fit in this category, so why not give it a try and just reheat these few joints before you swap in and out chips and reinstall firmware (which is mostly pointless as software doesn’t break or show wear….)

  • Hi,

    After digging through most threads about my issue and following the advice posted there, I still don’t have a solution – hence my question here. I bought my CVpal in the end of January and assembled it shortly after. Everything was working fine for about a month, happily sequencing my Euro from both Mac and iPad. However, all of a sudden the CVpal was no longer recognised by both machines. The LED is working fine. I have added solder/reflown on all soldering points and double-checked all the parts, but to no avail. I was hoping one of you might have suggestion on what to try next?

    Cheers!

    2015-04-12 17.02.21.jpg
    2000 x 1500 - 926K
  • Firstly, you need more solder around the big lugs on the jacks and the USB socket, there should be no gaps visible at all. These help keep the sockets in place and take the strain when you push plugs in and out.

    Hard to see any obviously bad joints, but they’re not very uniform, focus on the USB points and the main IC (the biggest one).

  • Thanks for your comment! I’ll try to follow your advice some time during the weekend.

  • Hello,

    I’ve just finished assembling cvpal kit and I encountered some problem. It turns on fine, cv2 and other gates works but cv1 does not work correctly. It worked at first attempt but now It spits out ~1.5v at c2 to octave above and nothing when go further or gives me ~3.6v. I noticed someone in this thread encountered a similar problem so I tried re-soldering ( 220s and socket for cv1 ) but no luck. What could have gone wrong? Thanks

  • hey guys, if this thread is stil active.

    i have a CVPal kit from thonk i ordered a while ago, and i’ve got a working LED but computer not recognising the unit… i’ve included some photos of my board. i know my soldering is quite sjit and messy, but i dont think theres any bad joints?

  • Maybe they forgot to flash the MCU?

  • maybe, ill send them an email, it had a little sticker on it though so either they just randomly put that on without flashing it or i screwed something up somewhere

  • Hi,

    I also bought the kit from Thonk and I’m having the same problem. I wrote them yesterday asking if the MCU was programmed and they said that yes. Mine also had a little sticker (orange in my case).

  • Hmm, maybe post pictures of the component side? And verify that you did not mix up the capacitors, those two near the crystal are not the same as the others.

  • Some pics of mine.

    IMG_20151210_201408.jpg
    1024 x 768 - 270K
    IMG_20151210_201359.jpg
    1024 x 768 - 262K
    IMG_20151210_201318.jpg
    768 x 1024 - 373K
  • i havent got my camera at this moment, ceramics are in the right place for sure, ill post pics when i get my camera back, orange sticker on mine too

  • @DavidC, Looks fine to me. Well, I’m out of ideas then. :-(

  • Out of ideas too.

  • I just built a cvpal I just got from thonk a couple of weeks ago. I don’t think it was programmed correctly, after I uploaded the firmware using an arduino it started working. It also came with an orange sticker on the t84 chip.

  • Starting to see a pattern here…

    a|x

  • Ack.. sorry everyone, looks like I sent out around 7-10 kits with incorrectly programmed chips somehow. It’s easy for me to identify the affected batches fortunately so i’ll be sending out new (doubly confirmed) chips this week with a nice Xmas gift too.

  • I’ve having calibration issues with my CVPal.

    I’ll calibrate and it’ll work fine, then after a couple days there’s voltage drop across the keyboard and I end up having to tune everything up – a few cents on the lower end of the range and about 30 cents at the upper end.

    Is my calibration getting lost? Or could there be something interfering with it?

  • Temperature variation? Is the voltage from the CVpal changing or the pitch from your oscillator(s)? If the latter, what sort of oscillator(s)? Could its V/oct response be changing? Are you feeding the pitch CV from CVpal through a passive multiple, which may cause a voltage drop? Just trying to eliminate possibilities before focussing on the CVpal. There’s nothing worse than wasting time fruitlessly troubleshooting the wrong part of a system.

  • Thanks for the reply. It’s connected to an Intellijel Atlantis, which I give about 20 minutes to warm up. The CVPal outputs I’m using, patching, and cables have been consistent and I’m not using any multiples.

    Whether it’s the CVPal’s voltage changing or the oscillator pitch is a good question – one I’ll need a voltmeter to answer, but in the meantime – do I have do do anything special to save my calibration or does that get saved automatically? Anything to be aware of on power-down?

  • Calibration gets saved automatically at each adjustment. It’s saved to eeprom. There’s nothing to worry about regarding power-down.

  • Hi! bought a Kit from Thonk like 3 months ago and just finished building the kit: same as system100m “ i have a CVPal kit from thonk i ordered a while ago, and i’ve got a working LED but computer not recognising the unit…
    Yep not showing in Audio Midi Setuo on a Mac.

  • The few affected chips that I sent out had a red dot sticker on them, so Jenz I don’t think it’s likely to be the same issue.

  • I sent correct chips to everyone affected yesterday morning. They were all sold approximately in the past two weeks. Drop me an email on info@thonk.co.uk if you have any questions.

  • Ok sorry… No red dot stickers on my IC’s

  • I just finished soldering my CV-Pal from Thonk today and I suspect that I got one of those faulty chips. As I understand it’s possible to upload a new firmware using an arduino board as a AVR?
    (https://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/ArduinoISP)

  • Was there a red dot on the chip barksten?

  • Follow up:
    I wired up an ArduinoIPS with USE_OLD_STYLE_WIRING enabled according to https://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/ArduinoToBreadboard (without ext clock).
    After downloading the sketch to my arduino uno I tried to use avrdude to program as described in the building instructions but I got an error:
    ————>8—————
    avrdude -V -p t84 -c arduino -P /dev/cu.usbmodem1D1131 -B 10 -u -U efuse:w:0xff:m -U hfuse:w:0xd6:m -U lfuse:w:0xde:m -U lock:w:0x2f:m

    avrdude: AVR device initialized and ready to accept instructions

    Reading | ################################################## | 100% 0.00s

    avrdude: Device signature = 0x1e950f (probably m328p)
    avrdude: Expected signature for ATtiny84 is 1E 93 0C Double check chip, or use -F to override this check.

    avrdude done. Thank you.
    ————8<————

    What’s going on?

  • Have you removed the microcontroller on your arduino board?

  • Using the arduino ide provided tool chains I needed to this this to upload the firmware:

    /home/thomasf/.opt/arduino-1.6.6/hardware/tools/avr/bin/avrdude \ -C/home/thomasf/.opt/arduino-1.6.6/hardware/tools/avr/etc/avrdude.conf \ -p t84 -cstk500v1 -P/dev/ttyACM0 -b19200 -B 10 -e -u -U efuse:w:0xff:m -U hfuse:w:0xd6:m -U lfuse:w:0xde:m -U lock:w:0x2f:m

    /home/thomasf/.opt/arduino-1.6.6/hardware/tools/avr/bin/avrdude \ -C/home/thomasf/.opt/arduino-1.6.6/hardware/tools/avr/etc/avrdude.conf \ -p t84 -cstk500v1 -P/dev/ttyACM0 -b19200 \ -B 1 -U flash:w:cvpal.hex:i -U lock:w:0x2f:m

    I connected the pins according to the table on the bottom of this page https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/installing-an-arduino-bootloader/connecting-the-programmer .. Which is:

    The AVRISP connector

    1 MISO 2 VCC
    2 SCK 4 MOSI
    3 RESET 6 GND

    How I connected it to the arduino:

    Arduino as ISP ISP Header
    Vcc/5V Pin 2
    GND Pin 6
    MOSI/D11 Pin 4
    MISO/D12 Pin 1
    SCK/D13 Pin 3
    D10 Pin 5

    I think I might had to install the ttiny support into the arduino ide as well.
    Something like this maybe http://highlowtech.org/?p=1695

    I haven’t really developed anything with arduino and I’m not familiar with how avrdude relates to the programmers and arduinoISP.. I might have over complicated things but it worked after some hours of research. I probably downloaded compilers and stuff I didn’t really need in the process..

  • @pichenettes:
    No. The ATMega is still on Arduino UNO board (loaded with the ArduinoIPS sketch (with define #USE_OLD_STYLE_WIRING so that is uses pin 11,12,13 instead of the ISP-header on board). ATTiny is by itself on a breadboard connected to the Arduino UNO.

    @thomasf:
    Thanks for the tips. I will try to find a connector and make a cable that fits on the six pin headers so that I can skip the old style thing. Which makes me wonder:

    Are you supposed to connect SCK-SCK, MOSI-MOSI, MISO-MISO or should the in/out be crossed?

    EDIT:
    After reading some more I found that I used the wrong programmer type for avrdude (should use avrisp instead of arduino). I change the command to:
    avrdude -V -p t84 -c avrisp -P /dev/cu.usbmodem1D1131 -B 10 -u -U efuse:w:0xff:m -U hfuse:w:0xd6:m -U lfuse:w:0xde:m -U lock:w:0x2f:m -v

    and got a new error (I also added a 10k pullup and 10uF capacitor to reset):

    avrdude: Version 6.2, compiled on Dec 16 2015 at 07:10:46 Copyright© 2000-2005 Brian Dean, http://www.bdmicro.com/ Copyright© 2007-2014 Joerg Wunsch

    System wide configuration file is “/usr/local/Cellar/avrdude/6.2/etc/avrdude.conf” User configuration file is “/Users/aon/.avrduderc” User configuration file does not exist or is not a regular file, skipping Using Port : /dev/cu.usbmodem1D1131 Using Programmer : avrisp Setting bit clk period : 10.0 AVR Part : ATtiny84 Chip Erase delay : 4500 us PAGEL : P00 BS2 : P00 RESET disposition : possible i/o RETRY pulse : SCK serial program mode : yes parallel program mode : yes Timeout : 200 StabDelay : 100 CmdexeDelay : 25 SyncLoops : 32 ByteDelay : 0 PollIndex : 3 PollValue : 0x53 Memory Detail : Block Poll Page Polled Memory Type Mode Delay Size Indx Paged Size Size #Pages MinW MaxW ReadBack —————- —— ——- ——- —— ——— ——— —— ——— ——- ——- ————- eeprom 65 6 4 0 no 512 4 0 4000 4500 0xff 0xff flash 65 6 32 0 yes 8192 64 128 4500 4500 0xff 0xff signature 0 0 0 0 no 3 0 0 0 0 0x00 0x00 lock 0 0 0 0 no 1 0 0 9000 9000 0x00 0x00 lfuse 0 0 0 0 no 1 0 0 9000 9000 0x00 0x00 hfuse 0 0 0 0 no 1 0 0 9000 9000 0x00 0x00 efuse 0 0 0 0 no 1 0 0 9000 9000 0x00 0x00 calibration 0 0 0 0 no 1 0 0 0 0 0x00 0x00 Programmer Type : STK500 Description : Atmel AVR ISP Hardware Version: 3 Firmware Version: 4.4 Vtarget : 0.3 V Varef : 0.3 V Oscillator : 28.800 kHz SCK period : 3.3 us

    avrdude: AVR device initialized and ready to accept instructions

    Reading | ################################################## | 100% 0.01s

    avrdude: Device signature = 0x000000 (retrying)

    Reading | ################################################## | 100% 0.01s

    avrdude: Device signature = 0x000000 (retrying)

    Reading | ################################################## | 100% 0.01s

    avrdude: Device signature = 0x000000
    avrdude: Yikes! Invalid device signature. Double check connections and try again, or use -F to override this check.

    avrdude done. Thank you.
    ———————8<———————

    I also tried to use my old PICkit2 programmer with avrdude but I got some weird usb permission error (I’m on Mac OSX 10.11).

    IMG_0003.jpg
    640 x 478 - 38K
  • I finally got it to work!
    I had to solder some wires to the ISP header on CV-pal and connect them to the pins on my arduino UNO.
    I also added the baud rate as a parameter.
    I guess that the success factor is that the ATTiny84 was clocked with the external clock and some fuse that was on the chip required that.

    avrdude -V -p t84 -c avrisp -P /dev/cu.usbmodem1D1131 -B 1 -b 19200 -U flash:w:cvpal.hex:i -U lock:w:0x2f:m -v

    avrdude: Version 6.2, compiled on Dec 16 2015 at 07:10:46 Copyright© 2000-2005 Brian Dean, http://www.bdmicro.com/ Copyright© 2007-2014 Joerg Wunsch

    System wide configuration file is “/usr/local/Cellar/avrdude/6.2/etc/avrdude.conf” User configuration file is “/Users/aon/.avrduderc” User configuration file does not exist or is not a regular file, skipping Using Port : /dev/cu.usbmodem1D1131 Using Programmer : avrisp Overriding Baud Rate : 19200 Setting bit clk period : 1.0 AVR Part : ATtiny84 Chip Erase delay : 4500 us PAGEL : P00 BS2 : P00 RESET disposition : possible i/o RETRY pulse : SCK serial program mode : yes parallel program mode : yes Timeout : 200 StabDelay : 100 CmdexeDelay : 25 SyncLoops : 32 ByteDelay : 0 PollIndex : 3 PollValue : 0x53 Memory Detail : Block Poll Page Polled Memory Type Mode Delay Size Indx Paged Size Size #Pages MinW MaxW ReadBack —————- —— ——- ——- —— ——— ——— —— ——— ——- ——- ————- eeprom 65 6 4 0 no 512 4 0 4000 4500 0xff 0xff flash 65 6 32 0 yes 8192 64 128 4500 4500 0xff 0xff signature 0 0 0 0 no 3 0 0 0 0 0x00 0x00 lock 0 0 0 0 no 1 0 0 9000 9000 0x00 0x00 lfuse 0 0 0 0 no 1 0 0 9000 9000 0x00 0x00 hfuse 0 0 0 0 no 1 0 0 9000 9000 0x00 0x00 efuse 0 0 0 0 no 1 0 0 9000 9000 0x00 0x00 calibration 0 0 0 0 no 1 0 0 0 0 0x00 0x00 Programmer Type : STK500 Description : Atmel AVR ISP Hardware Version: 2 Firmware Version: 1.18 Topcard : Unknown Vtarget : 0.0 V Varef : 0.0 V Oscillator : Off SCK period : 0.1 us

    avrdude: AVR device initialized and ready to accept instructions

    Reading | ################################################## | 100% 0.03s

    avrdude: Device signature = 0x1e930c (probably t84)
    avrdude: safemode: hfuse reads as D6
    avrdude: safemode: efuse reads as FF
    avrdude: NOTE: “flash” memory has been specified, an erase cycle will be performed To disable this feature, specify the -D option.
    avrdude: erasing chip
    avrdude: reading input file “cvpal.hex”
    avrdude: writing flash (7908 bytes):

    Writing | ################################################## | 100% 16.76s

    avrdude: 7908 bytes of flash written
    avrdude: reading input file “0x2f”
    avrdude: writing lock (1 bytes):

    Writing | | 0% 0.00s ***failed;
    Writing | ################################################## | 100% 0.11s

    avrdude: 1 bytes of lock written

    avrdude: safemode: hfuse reads as D6
    avrdude: safemode: efuse reads as FF
    avrdude: safemode: Fuses OK (E:FF, H:D6, L:DE)

    avrdude done. Thank you.

  • barksten: great that you got it working.. I remember now that I found out about the baudrate argument requirement by enabling verbose output in the arduino ide and looking at the log output how the ide generated the arguments for avrdude.

  • i just popped in the new chip and its now working just fine!

  • Hm! I was one of the red sticker chips as well, I actually didn’t have time to build it until after I received the replacement chip (thanks Thonk!!). But, after building it up and putting the new chip in I’m having the exact same problem as described above; LED comes on but both my computer and my iPad aren’t registering the device. I’ve double checked my solders (I’ve built quite a few modules from kit and otherwise, so I feel like I have a pretty good grasp of a decent join) and used multiple cables, rebooted, etc. Is it possible the second chip I received is bum too? Would there be another way to check it? I don’t have an ISP, but maybe that’s the route I should take?

  • I got the extra MCU from Thonk last week but I haven’t tried it yet since I got the first chip to work after reprogramming it. I can test to swap the chip tomorrow to see if mine is working.

    EDIT
    I just popped the replacement part in and it worked out of the box, just as expected. I would have been surprised if that wasn’t the case (I suspect that it was triple checked to prevent the same mistake again). However, that mine is correct makes no guarantee that yours are…

    Maybe you have mixed up the capacitors around the 20 MHz chrystal?

  • Hi,

    I too am having an issue with CVPal being recognised by my Laptop, Mac OX 10.11.3

    I had everything working and CVPal being recognised by Live, USB Light was on, output from Out 2 & Gate 2 working but there was no output from Out1/Gate1 so I had to replace Diode D1, now the device is not recognised at all, USB light is still working, Any Ideas?

    Attached are pictures.

    IMG_20160307_223827.jpg
    1200 x 1600 - 321K
    IMG_20160307_223833.jpg
    1600 x 1200 - 448K
  • Check the schematics, D1 and D2 have nothing to do with the gate/cv outputs but are there to keep the right voltage levels on the USB data lines. Did you replace D1 with one of exactly the same type (or at least the same specifications) ?

    The LED will light up as soon as there is power on the USB connector so it will be on regardless of the status of the rest of the circuit.

    Also, remember that the exact workings of each CV and gate output will depend on the MIDI channel(s) you use.

  • Hi Larsen,

    Yes I replaced with the exact Diode D1 – I even tested the board with a multi meter, and the circuit shows continuity. Any Ideas what it could be, I followed the instructions to the tee and my soldering looks fine and tests fine

    Thanks,

  • I don’t really have more ideas – the device was apparently mostly working before you replaced the diode and it should work just as well now if something did not go wrong with the replacement or with the new diode.

    You could check if the CVpal shows up in the USB device tree on your Mac (“About this Mac”, then System Report.) It should show up there if it talks to your computer at all.

    Screenshot 2016-03-08 18.03.27.png
    507 x 466 - 96K
  • Hi Larsen,

    it doesn’t show up on either Audio MIDI setup via utilities folder or in the System report. Could I have shorted the IC boards?

    Thanks

  • Hmm, from the picture it looks like there is quite a lot of solder at the leg of that diode (D1). It’s a bit hard to see clearly… check that it does not make contact with the resistors by accident, it looks like it might be close.

  • the solder is clean, Diodes D1/D2 are not touching the resistors, I notice when I remove the IC boards that one port has popped out, could this be the issue?

    if not I think I will just put this down to beginners luck and start again.

    attached is picture

    IMG_20160308_213734.jpg
    1600 x 1200 - 375K
  • Now that I look really close it looks a bit like the pin in question (pin 8 on IC2) might not be properly soldered after all. That’s the CV1 output pin, so it could explain your earlier troubles.

    The microcontroller (IC1) should still talk to the computer even without IC2 so it’s not the only problem – but it might be worth it to double check all solder joints then.

  • Did you remove the atmel chip (IC1) when you were reworking the diode? If not, depending on how much effort it was to flip the diode it’s possible you could have overheated IC1, though I think they’re generally pretty resilient.

  • nothing, IC1 doesn’t even register with the laptop, even after resoldering, I’ll put this down to beginners luck and buy a new module,

    Thanks for your help with this.

  • @DMR – I think I may have overheated the IC1 – oh well, lesson learned. thanks all. I’ll see if I can buy another IC1 chip and see what the results are.

Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

In this Discussion