Power supply options
  • Since it’s quite hard to find Meanwell T-60B PSUs here in Italy I was wondering which other options I have. Could be nice to reunite all options in one thread… for future reference.

    update: here’s the list of all the PSUs mentioned in the thread and others I could find, so you don’t have to scroll down to the bottom
    update2: this list is not up to date, please consider checking this thread here on Muff Wiggler instead

    update 3: I’ve removed the list here, since there is now an updated one online here on Google docs

  • Worldwide shipping:


    I generally look for “JAMMA power supply”, then make sure it has +12v -12v and 5v with a decent amount of ampage.

  • Although certainly a bit rough looking, I’ve been using these without any issues so far.

    You want the T-60B version.

  • @6581: well these sure are expensive, 41£ is about 50€, I used to pay max 35€ for these PSUs
    @piscione: is this a Chinese Meanwell clone?

    btw. don’t you find it a bit odd to have 5A (I think even 7A on the real T60-B) on the 5V and only a lousy 0.5A on the -12A?

  • @rumpelfilter, it is a Chinese clone. The T-60b is 3.5A at 12V and 1A at -12V, the clone is 2.5A at 12V and 0.5A at -12V.

    0.5A is low but since most people with larger systems use multiple power supplies, in practice the current limits are not an issue. I bought four of the clones for $100 USD (the seller made me a bit of a deal).

    I’m designing 12u by 126hp and ModularGrid tells me I’m at 1.4A at +12 and 0.7A at -12. Two of these supplies and 4 of Frank’s bus boards should be fine for me.

  • I’m not sure, according to the spec sheet the Meanwell T60-B only delivers 0.5A on the -12 rail.
    See the official specsheet here
    Though it says 0-1A as current range… hmm, maybe it means that the max load is 1A?
    But you’re right it’s not really a problem as long as you don’t want to run your whole studio through it! :)

  • I guess only a few things use the -ve rails. Op amps and the like.

  • Well on my system it’s 50% of the +V rail. I’d still be able to run a 12U system off one Meanwell probably though…
    But if the -V rail was like the +V rail you could run like 24U from one Meanwell :D

  • I think the rated current on each rail for the Meanwell T-60B is the maximum that can be supplied simultaneously, but each rail can supply more than that, within the current range limits indicated in the spec sheet, provided the total current does not mean that the rated power of 61 watts is exceeded. 61 watts equals the sum of the rated current times the absolute voltage on each rail: 5V*5A + 12V*2.5A + 12V*0.5A = 61W

    Is that correct?

  • BennelongBicyclist: Yes you are correct ;)

    I run these modules from one T-60B: http://www.modulargrid.net/e/racks/view/78504

  • @flocked: Thanks, that’s good to know that it still works well if the rated current on the -12v rail is exceeded, provided the other rails are well below their rated currents. I don’t plan to push mine nearly as hard as you are pushing yours.

  • Thanks for all the info! Now on to find a good T60-B source!

  • jameco.com in the USA sells them for about $30. That’s where I got mine. How are people mounting them to the case? Standoffs? Can I just screw it directly to the wood case, or do I need to leave an air gap for ventilation?

  • I screwed it to the wood. There’s a flat side and a vented side.

  • I mounted it directly on the wood too.

  • I mounted it to the wood as well. I really butchered the ac inlet though. My first t60b had no mounting plates. It’s barely hanging on. I should have just bought them feom Jameco, but I went used. Jamecos shipping is a bit high and they don’t do discounts.

  • Time to get electrocuted!

    You all seem to know exactly what to wire to what for the Meanwell T60B? I am a bit puzzled. Got one to try but didn’t hook it up yet for fear of instant electrocution or other mishap that is likely to happen. You all use grounded 3-wire for the mains? Then the conncections: AC/L and AC/N, ok that is clear. Ground. Then DC outputs. What is DC COM? And what is adjusted at the +5V ADJ? Did anyone adjust anything there yet?

    I will try the MeanWell at some point. But for obvious reasons, I am also looking at the synthrotek power supply. This basically is nothing but a simple PCB for a Murata voltage regulator (Mouser: 580-UEI15-120-Q12P-C). Seems rather powerful (+12V: 2.2A, -12V: 1.3A, +5V: 1.5A) and not very expensive. What I am a bit puzzled about is that they insist on a 12V power brick. Wouldn’t a 15V supply provide more headroom for a stable output?
    Has anyone experience with these kind of Murata regulators? They seem inexpensive, powerful, and do not require fiddling with AC mains.

  • If you don’t know how to wire the T60B then maybe it was not a good idea in the first place.

    Synthrotek kit looks cool but I don’t think it’s the Murata part you mentioned – it delivers 12V only.

    They recommend 12V probably because it is more common than 15V. “Headroom” does not matter for switched mode PSUs.

  • @pichenettes: don’t worry, i will not connect anything to AC mains when in doubt. And i am aware of the difference between being sure and being right (i am usually more worried about people who are not aware of this difference).

    As for the Murata, you are right, seems odd. But i checked, it is the one that is specified in the BOM: UEI15-120-Q12P-C
    see: http://www.synthrotek.com/BOMs/eurorack_powersupply_bom.pdf
    It has now been out for a while, so someone should have noticed if the most important part of the BOM is not correct. I’ll make sure and ask ...

    If it works, it would be a nice solution. Inexpensive and powerful, and no AC mains involved.

  • I think I got it… They use the Murata DC/DC converter to generate the -12V rail only. The 12V rail is taken straight from your power brick, without further regulation. That’s why they recommend a 12V one!

    That’s how they got their current ratings, which I think are a bit optimistic… 5A from the power brick – 1.3A (from the Murata module at its maximum rating) – 1.5A (from the 5V Murata module at its maximum rating) = 2.2A. They seem to ignore losses from the converters…

  • @morcego: well COM stands for common and is a different naming for GROUND. Didn’t know that either at the beginning, but fcd72 fortunately helped!
    The rest is pretty self explanatory, isn’t it? L-N AC is where you wire the blue and brown wires from your 220V AC power, the little ground icon right next to it is where you wire the the green/blue wire.
    the other connectors are the outputs, +V and -V are the +/-12V outputs, COM is ground +5V is exactly what the name says. The trimmer next to the 5V connector is to trim the voltage of that output if I remember that correctly.

  • In Germany the brown mains wire goes to L (Phase) and the but wire goes to N (Nulleiter), the yellow-green one should be connected to the PSUs Chassis. But we are picky over here…..

  • @pichenettes: ok, thanks, that is it! But then the power brick should better provide an exact voltage (Murata also have some regulators with bipolar output, but they have lower mA rating). Current rating is probably indeed a bit optimistic, however, should still be ok: Doepfer has 1200mA on +12V for the 9U case, so even a more conservative estimate would put the Synthrotek in the same league (or even a bit ahead).

    @rumpelfilter/fcd72: thanks! I was indeed confused by the ‘COM’ and by the trimmer. The rest is more or less self explanatory. Stil, some uneasiness always remains when connecting AC mains. I will try the Synthrotek first …

  • Don’t touch the trimmer – its perfectly tuned to +5V. Personally i am more afraid of the Kit you pointed to – 112$ for a tiny PSU that will burn if you come somewhere neat the ratings…...

  • whatever you do, don’t let the MAINS POWER go into your modules. They won’t like it.
    And of course don’t let the MAINS POWER go into your body, it will like it even less than the modules.

  • > But then the power brick should better provide an exact voltage

    Yes. I find it a bit lame to rely on the accuracy of the power brick – particularly because when you go shopping for one, you rarely find figures about load regulation, switching frequency, and noise…

  • > I find it a bit lame to rely on the accuracy of the power brick

    hum, not good. Seemed like a simple way to power a 9U case. I agree that simple relying on the power brick is not optimal (was not aware that the voltage regulator is only for the -12V), there should be a better way to do this. There is no free lunch, probably.

  • For a decent reliable job, crimp proper insulated crimp connectors onto the ends of the wires with a ratcheting crimper.

    When doing anything with electrics I always over rate things. Spend a few £ more to avoid fire :)

  • Olivier had suggested this one to me in another thread. No +5 ‘though. I use the T-60B clones I bought for the large rack and they are working fine, but this power converter and a wall wart are going to be used in an Anushri/Euro lunch box.

  • You can use a Volts adaptor to get the 5V rail.

  • @piscione: yes, Murata have also some other voltage regulator with +12V and -12V with slightly higher rating (but not much higher). These ones would be suitable for a powered busboard. Maybe also an option? Have a busboard with bipolar voltage regulators (with approx 700mA on each rail), and then use a 12 or 15V, 5A power brick to power all of them.

    In this way one could add rows as needed, and it is still rather inexpensive (C$35 is very reasonable, also the other regulators only cost approx 20-30EUR each). I don’t worry about the 5V, can be either a separate voltage regulator or, indeed, a Volts when needed. One advantage of these voltage regulators is that they are quite small, it won’t even increase the height of a busboard.

    Also, I am still very much in favor of a non-AC mains solution, not only because i might electrocute myself (which is acceptable risk), but I also sometimes work with people, and if then something happens, by whatever crazy accident: no good (not so applicable to the modular at this point, but the rule for other stuff: as soon as there are other people involved, ac mains is handled by certified personnel only, no matter what, and no matter how people think they can handle it).

  • For my 12u, 126hp case, I’m using two of the clone T-60B supplies. It’s really not a big deal to wire the mains power in, just make sure you cover any exposed mains wiring or connections with something that does not conduct electricity and you should be fine. I used something like this and a standard IEC power cable.

    For the lunchbox, I need something easy for my son to hook up at gigs. The lower row is actually horizontal in real life but there is no way to do that on ModularGrid.

    For now, I’ve built a small bus board from scratch and I’m running it out to a hookup panel with another standard, outward-facing Euro connector, that I can hook to a benchtop Euro power supply. I’ll post some photos when it’s a bit closer to done, still have some cutting, drilling and thread tapping to do.

  • A lot of good info here from the folks who have navigated these waters before. Thanks everyone – this weekend, I will make more progress on my DIY 6Ux84hp case!

  • hmm I am pretty happy with my T60-B too and I must say that I wouldn’t know what to buy as an alternative. I don’t really see the point in buying some expensive linear PSU, that will dissipate 80% of power in heat. But I admit that I don’t understand that much of it, so I’m really intested in hearing what else I could buy. I meanwhat other solutions do I get, that are not DIY (no kits)?
    I only know of the good old Doepfer PSU (which I have too), the Clicks&Clocks one and the uZeus…

  • The MeanWell successors of the T-60B are RT-50B (50W) and RT-65B (65W) for 33 and 35 EUR at Mouser. This week I just picked up the little baby:

    1333 x 1000 - 424K
  • looks good! I like the RT-50B one, still decent rating, but it looks very small.

    Still, I would also appreciate an option like the Synthrotek one, running on a conventional power brick. As said, the issue with wiring AC mains is not the danger of electrocuting oneself (which is a risk anyone might take or not), but anything that involves other people. A shame that they didn’t seem to get it right (there must be a way to use one of these voltage regulators and not to rely on the 12V straight from the power brick).

    EDIT: small = good, of course. The limiting factor are probably the 0.5A on -12V, so the small version RT-50B (with 2A on 12V) looks reasonable for a medium sized case. And it seems really small.

  • @Picard: very good! Tha’t‘s great news! If they are smaller, even better I’d say!

  • The RT-125B also looks good, only about 30% more expensive than the T-60B but rated for a full 1A on the -12V bus, and more amps than you could possibly need on +12V and +5V.

  • I’ve been tempted, some might say I have a wandering eye, by the larger MeanWell offerings, then I started calculating a little. Do I want a big honking PSU and having to run power distribution between different cases, or do I want them with a modicum of self-sufficiency?

    Then again, if I ever find myself wanting a modular that can double as a spot-welder… :)
    Wonder what else beside a mixer or an amp you’d have to get to warrant the RT-125? I’m not saying it’s a bad idea, I would consider it the day I have lots of Metasonix. Or this fantastic sequencer that runs off 4000-series IC and filament bulbs n’ heaters.

    For reals though, I wonder if the RT-125B eats lots more power when mostly idling, than a more loaded T-60B? It would be tempting to have some more headroom on the rails, decisions decisions…

  • Currently I use a pair of 12V plug packs feeding a pair of voltage regulators to drop it to 7.6V which then power four Shruthi (two powered from each regulator) – all this so that the voltage regulators on the Shruthi don’t get too hot. With an RT-125B, I could get rid of the plug packs and power the entire Eurorack and all four Shruti from a single source.

  • Yeah I think too that having one PSU that powers everything is maybe a bit overkill, though I can see the practical aspects that make this interesting.

    update: moved the list to the first post of this discussion

  • So, you’re not going to include the clones of the T-60B I’m using? No problems so far.

  • oh you’re right.
    They did have the same rating, didn’t they?

  • Included T-60B, both original and clones, into the list. Also corrected the prices for the newer MW models, because the VAT was not included in the 35€

  • update: moved the list to the first post of this discussion

  • I can’t remember if it was the same:

    OUTPUT: +5V 5A / +12V 2.5A / -12V 0.5A

  • @ rumpelfilter: great summary, thanks!

    A few comments: the doepfer DIY Kit is 1200mA on +12V and -12V each, as is the PSU2 and the Clicks&Clocks PSU (which I think is basially a clone of the doepfer PSU). Befaco also sell a power supply solution, but it is basically like a 15V Meanwell supply that is regulated down to 12V on their busboard.

    An important distinction is whether wiring of AC mains is involved. This is an issue, I think, also with respect to responsibility and insurance if any other people than yourself use the case (for example teaching). Doeper DIY Kit, Synthrotek 5A PSU, Tip Top uZeus, ADDAC ADDAC909E, and 4ms ROW Power do NOT involve wiring AC mains. All others do.

    The verdict for the Synthrotek was that the +12V come straight from the power brick, not very reliable (can’t they make a 15V version that regulates down to 12V, shouldn’t this be more stable and rather straightforward?).

    And does the ADDAC ADDAC909E really use a 5-pin Midi cable to get the 4A to the case? Is that a 5-pin midi connector?

    Wouldn’t it be possible to put the MeanWell RT-XXB in an external box and use a slightly less flimsy cable to get the power to the case. Then at least, I wouldn’t have the AC mains floating around in my case … and the doepfer DIY also has an external power brick, so shouldn’t make much difference in handling.

  • @morcego: thanks for the additional info, I’ll update the info. A couple of comments to your info though:

    The Doepfer DIY kit does not involve handling the AC current, the regular PSU 2 from them though does.

    The Clicks&Clocks one is indeed more or less like the PSU 2 so you’ll have to wire it to the AC mains as well.

    The ADDAC ADDAC909E really uses 5 PIN DIn connector, but I’m not sure if it’s the same as the MIDI ones. My suspicion is that they are though, should check the website for info.
    They also sell the barebone version, which they mount in their cases, but they’ll only sell it in conjunction with a case, where they can do the work of mounting properly and make sure it’s all insulated.

    You could of course do the same as ADDAC does with the Meanwell PSU, just make a nice box for it and choose a proper connector that has at least 4 poles (for the 3 voltages and ground). 5-pin XLR could also be good choice, sturdier than DIN and not used by normal audio equipment:
    You just need to use a good cable that will withstand the current flowing through it.

  • can’t find much info on the Befaco PSU

  • “Doepfer DIY kit does not involve handling the AC current” —> indeed, had this in the list of non-AC current.

    Here is the Befaco one: http://www.befaco.org/en/fuente-alimentacion/
    But it doesn’t really count, i think, as it is mainly the busboard that works together with a PSU like the MeanWell one, but 15V that is then regulated to 12V: http://www.befaco.org/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/powerbus-b.jpg
    A bit unusual I would say.

  • yeah it is a bit unusual. Thanks for the link!

  • Elby Designs here in Oz also sell a range of Eurorack PSUs and busboards. I use their ED123 passive busboards with a Meanwell T-60B, but they also sell a powered busboard, a busboard with individualy regulated outputs for each module and a PSU-sans-busboard. Elby ships overseas to most countries, I think.

  • @Rumpelfilter i’ve 3 unused/new meanwell t60b’s laying around. i could sell you one if you still need it

  • yeah that would be cool! PM me about how much do you want incl. registered shipping to Italy. Thanks!

    Btw I’ve found these PSU’s as well, anybody used these?

  • to briefly come back to this very helpful thread: eowave also now seem to offer a power supply: http://www.eowave.com/shop/products.php?prod=1309

    It is rather inexpensive, but there is not much information given. They sell it as suitable for 6U and (in the kit) comes with a 12V 3A external power brick. Does anyone know more about it (wrote them a message, but no response whatsoever).
    It looks rather small, and i would be always interested in small power supplies that are inexpensive and do not require to wire up mains voltage.

    To complete the list above: acidlabs (www.acidlabs.de) also sell a power module, similar to uZeus with +12V/700mA, -12V/700mA, Price: 70 €. It requires an external power brick, 12V AC (not included). But seems to have no real advantage over uZeus. They advertise for up to 2x84hp, sounds very ambitious for 700mA (maybe with a lot of passive mults and switches).

    A nice solution for smaller lunchboxes could also be the other eowave supply that comes with their midi interface: the Centre de Contrôle. Requires external power brick (12V, up to 3A) and provides max 600mA on the negative rail (-12V), then “to have the same amount of positive voltage, you need at least 1,5 A minimum powering”. So the +12V comes straight from the power brick, same as with Synthrotek. Probably true for their other supply also.

    Also got a RT-50B know, it is really quite small (10x10x3.5cm). And with its 2A on +12V it would be perfect for medium sized cases, if it wasn’t for the need to put 240V in the case.

  • And what about this guy here: http://uk.farnell.com/xp-power/pcm50ud07/psu-low-leakage-50w-2-output/dp/1109901

    Output Voltage – Output 1: 12V (3A)
    Output Voltage – Output 2: -12V (1A)
    Unfortunately all this ‘Output Ripple and Noise Voltage’ means nothing to me.

    Not the very cheapest (£53) but it looks like an easy solution (and is not that much more expensive than the MeanWell ones).

  • Looks good, but one limitation I found while quickly looking at the datasheet was that they require a minimum amount of current to be drawn by the circuit they power (500mA on the positive rail and 200mA on the negative rail). So you’ll have to make sure your rack has enough modules to meet the minimum current specs.

  • Ripple and noise numbers are not very sexy. Twice those of the meanwell.

  • ok, thanks! So again not optimal :(

    Actually, the uZeus also requires a minimal load (there is a jumper on the module that attaches a dummy load, only if there are a few modules attached, one can get rid of it and get the full power).

  • @morcego: thanks for the additional info!

    @pichenettes: shit that’s something I hadn’t considered… The Tracopower also seems to need at least 0.3A to properly regulate current… Plus the ripple&noise seems to be 240mV (1.0 % of Vout nom.), double the noise the Meanwell makes.

    What happens if the load is less than 0.3A, does it output a higher voltage?

  • Though the specsheet talks about: “Minimum load on main output of multiple output models”, so theoretically there should not be a minimum load on the -12V output.


    I’m a bit worried because I have this PSU in the small skiff… which doesn’t host as many modules.
    Right now it barely consumes 315mA on the +12V rail

  • I have no idea what happens if the load goes below the recommended value – it would be worth measuring it…

  • that’s what I’ll do!

  • @morcego: I can only find one Eowave PSU, what’s the other one you’re talking about? Anyway, the PSU does not come with a power brick, but they have a suitable one they’ll sell you on their shop.
    The Acidlabs website it down right now so I can’t check that one.

  • I measured voltages on my Tracopower PSU with a supposed load of about 300mA and voltages look kind of normal. I get exactly 12V on the +12 rail and -12,17V on the – rail.

  • Then maybe the spec that is not met when the load is too low is the noise/ripple?

  • that could be. Actually now that I think of it I measured the voltage with no modules attached after mounting the PSU in the skiff, and the voltages were the same as they are now… so that can’t be it. It’s most likely the noise&ripple.
    I must say that despite the values declared being already higher than the ones on the Meanwell, I can’t really hear any noise or ripple in the signal.
    I get some of noise out of the Doepfer DIY PSU I have in the other case though. It’s very faint, you need to crank up the gain on the mixer a lot (way past the volumes you’d usually make) to even hear it… but it’s there.

  • This thread is making it very hard to resist starting a modular…

  • you are still resisting? Oh come on, it’s just a couple of modules, you can stop anytime you want…

  • Haha! It’s a worse addiction than some others, but at least it’s mostly harmless…
    Just some rack rails, a PSU distro board or five, a Meanwell and you’re good to start.

    Gotta have ‘em all, just like Pokémon :p

  • @rumpelfilter: Eowave have two supplies in their shop/webpage:

    The ‘Kit DIY Eurorack alimentation’
    Needs an external power brick 12V DC, up tp 3A. They have suitable ones for sale also.

    And then the ‘CENTRE DE CONTRÔLE’
    It is a midi interface, but also provides a PSU (there is a DC input on the faceplate). Again an 12V DV external brick is needed. However, both supplies only consist of a regulator for negative voltage, the +12V is taken straight from the power brick. The cv-interface/power supply looks very useful for small systems. Should be enough to power about 104hp.

    Acidslab website is up and running again, the modules are here: http://www.acidlab.de/ProductAssets/Modular/Module_Overview.pdf

  • @morcego: thanks for the info!

  • All is lost. I’ve ordered a Ripples.

  • @BennelongBicyclist Can you wire up the ED123 to distribute +5V as well, or is it for distributing +/-12V only?

  • @t2k: knew it! :)

    I’ve added links to all the PSU options in the first post.

  • “Can you wire up the ED123 to distribute +5V as well” —> all busboards should be able to deliver 5V as well (if the power supply delivers it), and this one has a spade to connect it to 5V, so should be no problem.

  • @morcego Thanks. Can you tell that I’m new to this? ;)

  • @t2k
    Now you are falling thru the rabbit hole….. i have one BusBoard left for you from my personal stock if you like ;-)

  • The going rate is about one BusBoard per year …

  • @fcd72 I was afraid to ask…

  • @t2k
    its black….

  • @fcd72 Can you email me a PayPal payment request? :)

  • @t2k: Yup, the Elby ED123 supports 5V:

    1280 x 960 - 280K
  • Most minimal modular system ever:

    1280 x 976 - 441K
  • enough to make some cool stuff with I’d say! :) actually you could even do without Ripples :)

  • Yup, this is pretty cool already, especially combined with the A4 providing note, gate, envelope and/or LFO on its four CV outputs. I’m planning to add a Peaks and then leave it at this for some time while I take my time building a bigger case and figuring out what more I’d like to be able to do.

  • and i stumbled upon this one here: http://www.futurlec.com/Mini_Power_Dual_12V.shtml

    It says: “These units operate from a single polarity variable dc power source of 14 – 24Vdc, with an output current of up to 1A”. Would be sufficient for a single row, i guess. For larger cases several could be used (as they look small enough). But no specs are given, so probably not very good …

  • for small cases (with just few modules) there’s also the MFOS wall wart bipolar PSU. depending on the regulators it can take up to 1A of current draw.
    more info here

  • Just built the Clicks & Clocks kit for a DIY case, will report back on noise & ripple once get it powered on and running for a while…

  • Hello :)
    what do you think for a big 114*4 HP case would be better ?
    several small Mean Well power supply or a big one like this ?


    Basically i need something about 1500mA on the +12V, and 700 mA on the -12V.

    Thanks !

  • I don’t think you need a huge PSU, the T-60B or the newer Meanwell RT-50B have enough power for what you need. They state that the output on the -12 is 500mA, but it can deliver up to 1A. See comments in the thread, it’s been discussed here.

  • Thanks a lot Rumpelfilter for your answer ! (& for your lovely designs !)

  • Thanks arnaud! You might see what others say about the -12V current draw though :)

  • I had posted this list on my blog and from there it was posted on the Muff Wiggler facebook group, there is created quite a bit of discussion, so I decided to open up a thread on Muffs to collect some more input and feedback from people, you can find the thread here:

  • Actually I was contacted by Synthrotek regarding the line “possibly unreliable”, which I now realize was something I had added here because morcego wrote this:
    “The verdict for the Synthrotek was that the +12V come straight from the power brick, not very reliable (can’t they make a 15V version that regulates down to 12V, shouldn’t this be more stable and rather straightforward?).”
    But actually I should have verified that before posting on my blog.

    Actually for the next update of the list I’d be quite interested in knowing about more experiences with that PSU, so who got it?

  • Just wanted to add my 2 bits to this. It looks like someone mentioned that the +12 source in our power supply may not be very reliable. I have not had much evidence for this and have only had one return (for noise on the flying bus cables, which can happen with any flying bus) after selling 400-500 units. It is true that the +12 comes in directly from the brick, and the worst thing I have seen is that some noise can be introduced if you wiggle the dc connector jack, but this can be avoided by not wiggling it. :) We have found our units very reliable and use them for hours everyday. I imagine that various +12 sources can have varying amounts of noise, but the power is very consistent from what I have seen from both lots of units produced here and from customer response. Anyone care to dig deeper as to what ‘unreliable’ really means to them? Thanks, great forum!

  • As long as you sell it with your own officially approved +12V brick, fine.

    I expect shit to happen if/when people use their own +12V brick instead (in the event it is unregulated, or switching with a low-ish switching frequency and/or lots of ripple).

  • Yes I think that’s the main point. You can buy the Synthrotek PSU with a tested power brick, but I don’t know if there is a EU brick option as well, it’s not clear from the description on the shop.

  • Also, to add from my perspective “The verdict for the Synthrotek was that the +12V come straight from the power brick, not very reliable …”, was meant to reflect the discussion (see thread above).

    People on Muffwiggler report mostly positive experience. I actually also have bought it by now :D but as yet only put to use in a test case, mostly to test diy modules, so no heavy loads but also no problems so far. I think, it is still fair to point out that the quality of the power brick matters and that the current ratings (full 5A) are very optimistic.

    I still prefer and appreciate options for power supplies, like the synthrotek one, that don’t require me to wire mains voltage (not only because of me, but also because of other people who might use the case). A version that regulates down from 15V seems also a reasonable option (15V power bricks are also quite common). I don’t know if this would put any less demands on the power brick.
    Also, fair enough, synthrotek point out on their page that with any other power brick than theirs, they will not take responsibility.

  • Just ordered the Meanwell RT-65B for 19,10 € at reichelt
    I think that is a very good price.

  • @cj55 how many rows/hp/modules are you powering?

    thinking oh getting one too, for a 9U 94 hp frame

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