LCD for module tester
  • Does this work? it’s 1/2 the price of the suggested Mouser part.
    Datasheet ->
    Suggested part ->

    And the purchase page if anyone is interested

  • I think I remember something about the controller used in the tayda LCD being HD44780 compatible, so it should work.

    That being said, the newhaven displays are supposedly much nicer to look at.

    If reducing the cost of the display is your main motivation for asking, just check ebay for 16x2 lcds, and select one that is compatible with the HD44780 standard(Google the name of the controller, see if anyone mentions HD44780 compatibility).

  • if you’re going to order from Asia might as well go to BuyDisplay and get free shipping. I use their white on blue all the time

  • Like this one?

  • no, header needs to be on top but that’s the right seller, check their website

  • Got them. And I suppose we should use the 5V ones?

  • Ehh.. Any of these should do, as long as the header is at the top. Someone correct me if I’m wrong.

  • I often get LCDs from and the rule is: don’t buy a cheapest LCD available, as it’s usual very low quality. The difference in price may be a couple of $ but the difference in quality is quite substantial.

  • Kvitekp : care to elaborate what’s the main difference between the 15$ LCD screen on Mouser vs these? Big difference of quality?

  • I was talking more about difference between this $1.85 and this $2.58 displays. The first one will typically have noticeably less uniform back light and some other imperfections: i’ve seen skewed glass and not fully tightened metal legs.

    As for Mouser/Digikey offering — those are top notch, but not much better to justify the price difference if you buy in quantities.

    Also, for some reason, the LCDs buydisplay sells on ebay are slightly better than the ones they sell from their own web site. They cost a little more too… i believe this is because of ebay customer protection.

  • Good tip on buydisplay! I already have a Tayda order going so just to save the hassle of waiting for two slow boats, I might pick up the one I posted. I’ll post here in the end with what I did and how it worked.

  • Kvitekp, where did you get the nice blue on black display in this thread?

  • It’s Newhaven Display’s NHD-0216K1Z-NSW-FBW-L, available here .

  • I ended up ordering the Mouser Newhaven one out of connivence

  • Almost done with my tester. How do I mount the LCD?
    Using the mouser newhaven one above and it’s smaller than the hole so, friction won’t hold it in place.

  • Also What resistor should pair with it?

  • FYI soldered it on a male header and used a 47 ohm R… It works. Just had to twist the contrast poti.

  • this thread appears to be long dead but ill try anyway- i noticed a couple of users having issues with their screen just showing the characters blocked out.

    my unit powers up and i think is performing as expected (ie getting a tone from audio out) but as i cant cycle through the menu on the screen im not sure what im selecting.

    also the LEDs do not light up. I tested with another led , bridging the points to see if it would light, incase they were installed incorrectly, but no dice.

    any help much appreciated

  • > screen just showing the characters blocked out

    like – the top row all black, the bottom row all white? That means the display is not initialized properly. You sould check the connections on the display. Reflow the solder joints. That should fix it.

  • I know it can be frustrating when things don’t work but try to see the positives; you get the chans to really understand what you are building. You need to learn how it’s supposed to work before you can find the fault. Experiment and measure to find some specific questions about the things you don’t understand.
    The thing about building things yourself is to learn things right? You have already committed to spend time instead of money.
    You learn by asking questions so keep going. Try to find a common denominator for your symptoms. Don’t give up. Post more questions.

    On the bright side, if it’s already broken you can’t mess it up ;-)
    (But make sure the voltages are ok and you don’t have a short. That can ruin things if you leave it powered on.

  • thanks for replying! i love making and fixing things and have learnt all i know from asking stupid questions for a year and have about 15 modules working fine through various levels of trial and error. i follow the path of least resistance to see progress then attack the complex problems later :)

    anyway- TheSlowGrowth- ive re-flowed the screen already, ill try again then maybe i should think about replacing the screen?

    would the LEDs not lighting up be associated with the non initialized display?

  • Different lcds requires different resistors for the led. Test your voltage at that resistor.

  • i mean the leds that are not part of the lcd asssembly. the ones above the buttons underneath the screen? how would i know what voltages i shoul dbe seeing? questions :)

  • I guess the processor sits in a socket? Maybe one of the pins that are connected to the display is not making a proper connection an the processor side?

    The leds not lighting up could indeed be related. Maybe the processor isn’t running at all. But you wrote you get audio signal from the output. I’m not familiar with the unit, but maybe there’s another way to check if it is performing as expected?

  • i reversed the leds. they were incorrect and now work.

    i think that since i can get what i think is the correct function out of the unit by blundering around the messed up screen menus, that the processor is ok. im going to replace the display…

  • bamboombaps: Did replacing the display fix the problem? I’m having the same problem.

  • Just an update. I replaced the screen and now it works fine. Looks like i must have fried the old one. Probably shorted the 5v rail to the 12v rail by accident.

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