Green 40x2 OLEDS
  • Cant beat 35 euro

    White/yellow/green in stock

    Easy to deal with, 30 euro shipping to the US, $12 international handling fee.

    Cool supplier, they are a dealer for a number of display companies in the east.

  • @altitude Are these drop-in replacements for Ambika, and are they likely to cause noise issues, in the same way the Shruthi-XT was effected?


  • I ask because the LCD of my Ambika is slightly faulty, so I might try replacing it with one of these, if that’s not going to cause problems, noise-wise.


  • That’s a good question, the PSU on Ambika is considerably different than Shruthi so in theory, the problem shouldnt exist. I thought someone did the yellow one and reported no problems. You will want to mount them on the front of the board though, not behind. They are about a third of the thickness.

  • I didn’t noticed any problems by using yellow ones.

  • Good to know, guys.


  • Behold! (my poorly focused photo that does show the nice viewing angle)

  • Doe we have a good candidate for the Shuthi xt from that same source??

  • never looked. 16x2 OLED displays are easy to find anywhere

  • Usually i buy my 16x2 OLEDs from TME. They are reasonable priced and i never had any issues with these…

  • Was about to order two of the 40x2 for my Midibox, but a PIVA/ CF is required :(

  • Vishay 40x2 OLED at a good price at RS Components.
    parts no: 881-2738
    only Yellow available though.

  • yeah, they have a whole new line of those out. Mouser has some

  • I stuck a VFD in my XTK but the distance between the actual characters and the glass is too much, so you can’t see the bottom row much unless you stand over it.

    Hopefully one of these will be better?

    Ordered one from Rapid Online to try. I may just stick the LCD back in if nothing else works out as well.

  • They’re too big for an XTK, doesn’t fit in the gap in the PCB. LCD going back in, backlight is a little bit dim, hence why I looked to replace.

  • Beware RS. I bought 2 green Vishay oleds and received 2 yellows. They were part numbered as Green and came in a anti-static bag labelled for Greens. The oleds inside were yellow with yellow part numbers on them. I didn’t return them as I just knew I’d get yellows back again. :)

  • Also to add: The Vishay parts are just rebadged Raystars

  • and they work great. They are BRIGHT as all get out, there is some camera thing happening so it looks brighter and less green than in real life but I have a dark tinted gray window on top of mine to tame it. It’s almost too much without it

  • I’m building a Ambika for a customer with a yellow Vishay from RS and it looks quite nice.

    1200 x 900 - 305K
  • youre going to want to stick that on the front of the board

  • heh. Suit yourself, just have a good answer when they ask why the display is sunk 10mm into the case.

  • I guess it depends on the case, but if it is opaque with a window then you’ll not be able to see the bottom row well without angling it.

  • has anyone tried socketing an OLED with low-profile socket?

    I think there might be just enough room.


  • Yep…
    As 6581punk said, it depends on the case.
    And what the customer want…
    Before assuming people make things wrong, make sure they don’t do it on purpose. ;-)

  • @Modulart your “No…” didn’t give much in the way of context, though.

    @altitude was just trying to be helpful.


  • Any tips on removing an old LCD?

    I have a Dremel, so my thought is that I might just cut through the display board between connectors and the display itself.

    Then I thought I’d try and cut between all the pins, so I can remove them individually.

    Has anyone tried this method, or had success with an alternating approach?


  • If it’s a double row connector then you’re stuffed. But a single row connector like on the Shruthi can be removed with this trick (skip to 9 minutes 36s approx):

  • The Ambika display is attached with a double-row header.

    I’ll have a look at that video, though.


  • Yeah, wouldn’t work for the Ambika display.
    Good tip later about clearing holes with resistor, though. I’ll give that a try!


  • a heated desoldering pump is really what you want here, too easy to tear up the PCB otherwise

  • I do have a desoldering pump, but never had much success with it.


  • You must hold the pump from one side of the pcb. Completely cover the pad with the nozzle so the air really MUST flow trough the hole. Then heat the pad up with the iron from the other side of the pcb, trying not to stick the iron into the hole (that would prevent airflow and the solder won’t be sucked out). I usually try to heat up the pad by touching it on its edge.

    That is much better than the resistor lead method. I agree, altitude, it can rip your pad apart easily.

  • I think altitude is talking about a desoldering iron.
    Something like that:

    1000 x 643 - 41K
  • ah I see. I never used one of those, I had no problems removing tons of stuff with technique in my last post. But I would imagine it is much easier with a heated pump.

  • Sorry, yes, I meant a desoldering Iron, not a pump.

    I have extensive (but not always successful) experience with desoldering pumps.

    My current one is quite an expensive one, and does the job pretty well. Some holes just don’t want to clear, though.

    Could be something to do with my using lead-free solder, maybe.


  • Could someone remind me what ifhave to mod on the Ambika mainboard in order to fit the OLED?

    Do I leave the backlight resistor and trimmer in place, or do I have to remove them and add jumpers where they were?


  • >Do I leave the backlight resistor and trimmer in place, or do I have to remove them and add jumpers where they were?

    It doesnt matter, its not used on the OLED

    Nothing else is needed, just drop it in, dont fuck up the motherboard removing the old one

  • Thanks @altitude that’s several fewer opportunities to fuck it up, anyway.

    Removing the display header still provides plenty, though ;)


  • without a proper desolder tool, I’d say your next best bet would be to add a lot solder to each pin (and I mean a lot), get that nice and hot and then quickly grab it and pull it out of both parts at once with the iron still on the joint. You should be able to get both solder joints hot enough to flow the solder and pull out the pins one by one

  • Or try some of that chipquik stuff.

  • I’ll try the Dremel method, I think, since I’m not worried about destroying the original display.


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